Europe's Ultimate Fortress City -
In the year 760 “Pepin the Short” wrested southern France from the Saracens, except for Carcassonne – he just couldn’t breach it. But he figured that eventually, they’d starve within its walls and surrender. But Dame Carcas had other ideas – she fattened up their last pig, and had it thrown over the city’s ramparts. Their enemies figured if they could waste such an animal, they must be well-stocked. Once the enemies retreated, Dame Carcas rang all the bells of the city in celebration. “Carcas sonne” (Dame “Carcas rings” the bells) is where the name of the city came from, or so they say.
Cyril had some bikes for us to borrow, so we were excited to take off and see the city and the fortress. Rich, however, needed to have time on the computer working out the last couple of weeks of our trip. I was anxious to get going, so I just decided to explore myself (on foot).
I had some postcards I wanted to mail, so Cyril had explained to me where the post office was. I asked some questions, and found my way there, but to my misfortune, I realized that I didn't have a clue how to get back to his house. I had luckily brought my little notebook that had our couch surfers contact information in it. Unfortunately, I hadn't written in Cyril's address, phone number, or last name. mmm....what to do?
I just kept wandering and taking a little tour around where the post office was. I back tracked where I thought I had come from, but got lost, so I went back to the post office.
I decided to stop and ask a lady at the real estate office if I could use her computer. She didn't understand much English, but she finally let me. I thought I would get on the couch surfing website and our yahoo email and send Rich a message. I didn't remember the passwords or they didn't work. So that failed.
In my wanderings I found some cute signs with the composers names and years on them. Of course you all know how much I love music, so I took pictures of several of them.
Frederic Chopin - 1810-1849
Wow - he was only 39 when he died and so much beautiful music he composed. Krisalyn, my oldest, learned some amazing pieces by him. I remember the Revolutionary Etude the most - crazy left hand....so difficult!
Claude Debussy - 1862-1918
A wonderful "impressionistic" composer with some beautiful, scenic interpretations in his music. I love playing "La Fille aux Cheveux de lin" and "Clair de Lune" even today.
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart - 1756-1791
If I were asked what my favorite composer was, I'd say Mozart. I love his operas, his piano sonatas, his string quartets, and his classical style with little or no pedaling. I played Susannah in "Le Nozze di Figaro" in college....a delightful opera. Then I saw "Don Giovanni" with my youngest daughter, Arianne, in NYC - a Metropolitan Opera production. FANTASTIC!!
All my piano students either love or hate Johann Sebastian Bach 1685-1750, the most popular Baroque Era composer. I would teach his early minuets to them when they were 5 and 6 years old. Every Suzuki book has at least one Bach piece in it. Remember all the Monster Concerts we had and playing Partita in Bb with the Minuets and Gigue.?
Oh the memories!
Francis Poulenc - 1899-1963
He wrote music in the 20th century and is one of my favorites. I had one that I did while in high school that I can still play today, thanks to my wonderful piano teacher, Mrs. Ransom. I love her and she is still alive playing for her church even today at nearly 90 years old.
Back to my LOST story!!
We grabbed a bite, then took off on the bikes to go the Fortress.
Look grandkids! I did wear a bike helmet in Europe. Aren't you proud of me? |
We biked quite awhile before we came to the river and then we saw it!
The massive walls enfolding the old town are nearly two miles around, with 52 towers, each topped with a "witch hat" turret. For good measure, an outer rampart was added around the year 1300. While the double walls seem mighty enough, moats strengthened the city's defenses. Moats weren't actually filled with water and alligators — they were just a dangerous no-man's-land designed to expose attackers.
3500 BC: Settlement near the present-day site of Carcassonne can be traced back to when the city of Carsac (an old Celtic name) was an important trading hub.
The historic city of Carcassonne is an excellent example of a medieval fortified town whose massive defenses were constructed on walls dating from late antiquity. In the second half of the 19th century, Viollet-le-Duc, headed up the restoration work. Since the pre-Roman period, a fortified settlement has existed on the hill where Carcassonne now stands. The earliest known occupation of the site dates from the 6th century BC.
It was an absolutely fantastic, beautiful, wonderful day to tour the Castle. |
Across the moat, just like in the storybooks! |
During Carcassonne's golden age — the 1100s — troubadours sang ballads of ideal love, chivalry was in vogue, and a pragmatic spirit of tolerance ruled. The area became a center of the Cathars — a heretical Christian group. They opposed the over-the-top materialism of the Church, which put them on a collision course with the pope.
The 12th-century count's castle was built over the western part of the Roman walls; it was surrounded by a rectangular fortified enclosure in 1226. By the end of the 13th century the town had assumed its definitive appearance as a medieval fortress.
1240-1250: King Louis IX took rule of the city and also added to the outer ramparts, boosting the reputation of Carcassonne as impregnable.
12-13th Centuries: Carcassonne played a role in the Albigensian Crusades. In 1209 Simon de Montfort captured Viscount Trencavel, let him die in prison, and named himself the new viscount of Carcassonne. Montfort was instrumental in adding more fortifications to the city.
"Some day my Prince will come.... |
...Someday I'll find my love! |
"And how thrilling that moment will be.... |
...When the Prince of my dreams comes to me." Where is he anyway?? |
Did he get thrown in the dungeon? |
Is he hiding over yonder? |
Here Princey, Princey...come to me! |
Maybe he's locked up in the tower waiting for me to rescue him! |
I've looked high, I've looked low. :( |
Is he out back or around the corner?
Maybe I'm trying too hard to find him - he's supposed to come to me! |
Could this be him? No - he'd never wear PINK! |
PLEEZE - Pinocchio? Not my Prince!! |
This one is just not my type! |
I'd be robbing the cradle with this Little Prince! |
The Phantom Prince - not on your life! |
Are you my handsome, shining knight in armor?....No - you say? Oh DARN! |
No, I won't look any longer for him. The song says that he will come to me, so.....
Meanwhile, the Prince is looking and looking.... |
Up and down the streets he wanders. |
HERE I AM - Principessa! I was here all the time! Come to me! |
For a day we ARE the Prince and Princess of this Castle! |
Back to the Story of the Carcassone Medieval Town
As France consolidated its central power, it clamped down on feisty groups like the Cathars, even in this remote corner of the country. The king and the pope joined forces to launch the brutal 13th-century Albigensian Crusades. The Cathars retreated to isolated strongholds in the hills, but in the end were ruthlessly wiped out. Today the ruggedly beautiful land around Carcassonne is dotted with their haunting castle ruins.
A local revolt in 1262 caused the king to expel most of the inhabitants. He allowed them to settle on the other side of the river, where the new town that they set up was itself fortified in 1347.
1659: The Treaty of Pyrénées reduced Carcassonne’s military,
and the city turned its focus from war to wool making.
We enjoyed walking around the tourist shops, but what I enjoyed the most was all the candy shoppes. There were so many different kinds and the stores were decorated so cute....very colorful and so clever.
ENJOY THE SWEET SHOPPES!!
I wanted to try one of everything after the lady in this store gave us a sample of a cookie. It was REALLY good!
Can you believe how everything is organized? So perfect!
FUDGE & CHOCOLATE...YUM!!
Swirly Licorice |
Are you hungry yet? |
Different flavors of divinity |
Then there was candied fruit |
There were street performers trying to earn a living. |
This guy was really quite talented. |
I went into the church that is still being used today - I heard a group of men performing. |
Back down the hill we went out of the old city gates and saw some cool architecture.
Good-bye to the beautiful Carcasonne Old City |
What a beautiful day it was and I'm so glad that I found my Prince - I think I'll keep him! We go to Barcelona next! |
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